Heading North
Welcome to the
Heading North Tour
Discover the Ultimate Motorcycle Journey through Northern Europe - Switzerland, Germany, Denmark, Norway, Sweden, Finland, Estonia, Latvia, Lithuania, Poland, Czechia, Slovakia and Austria
Embarking on the Heading North tour was a grand Arctic tour on two wheels, covering 10,000 kilometres across 12 Northern European countries. Fueled by our relentless passion for exploration, we set out to conquer Norway's beauty, Sweden's tranquillity and Finland's forests. From Norway's majestic fjords to the Baltic states' hidden gems, each kilometre added a new chapter to our epic journey.
Heading North wasn't just a motorcycle tour; it was the final chapter of our mainland Europe escapades. Our tire tracks are now on the roads of all 47 European nations, a testament to our spirit of adventure. Join us as we relive this thrilling tale, where 12 countries, 10,000 kilometres, 2 wheels, and unwavering determination merged into an extraordinary adventure through Northern Europe.
Heading North
Heading North was no ordinary motorcycle tour for us – it was an extraordinary culmination of a remarkable journey. My incredible wife and I, fueled by an insatiable passion for exploration, have ventured through more than 40 European countries in recent years, on a mission to conquer every inch of Europe. With only a few countries left we embarked on a thrilling journey that covered over 6000 miles across 11 countries in the northern quadrant of the continent. This epic tour not only marked the grand finale of our European travels but also solidified our legacy as explorers whose tire tracks mark the roads of all 47 European nations, a number that might be debated but our spirit of adventure certainly isn't.
Our story starts the same way as always, panniers packed, route planned and a massive motorway slog before us, but this time we decided to make it even more difficult for ourselves …. 900miles in 40 hours from Basel, Switzerland to the top of Denmark ready to take the ferry from Hirtshals to Kristiansand, Norway where the real adventure would begin.
We quickly crossed the border into Germany and jumped straight onto the Autobahn. With no speed limits on certain stretches, you can really unleash the full power of your BMW R 1250 GSA as you feel the money flying out the exhaust pipe. 900 wet miles later we arrived in Hirtshals ready to take the 8am ferry across the North Sea.
The ferry was simple and as you’d expect, the four-hour crossing feels like it takes a lifetime when excitement fills your body eager to ride the roads Norway is famous for.
Norway’s Fjords
There’s something about arriving by sea to a new country that enthrals one with excitement as the bow of the ferry opened to reveal this new land. We were greeted with the waves and nods of other bikers on their return journey, their faces grinning with triumph like soldiers returning from battle. We headed north riding through lush forests and pristine lakes. With another ferry booked for the next morning we had to get some miles under our belt.
We started our descent along the Lysebotn mountain road, where hairpin turns make their way inside the very heart of the mountain. The Lysevegen first opened in 1984 solely as an access road during the construction of the hydroelectric power station, it now serves to entertain two-wheel visitors with its 27 hairpin bends. The thrill of navigating these treacherous bends, coupled with the awe-inspiring views of the Norwegian fjords below, left us breathless. We arrived at the only hostel in the village to a very concerned receptionist, checking that we had a reservation for the ferry leaving the next day. Many come to the town thinking the ferry leaves regularly like most of the other ferries in Norway, however they are sorely disappointed when they realise it’s mostly used for foot passengers and space for vehicles is limited. After we reassure her, we set out to explore the small town. With a hostel, a campsite and one pub selling £10 pints, the town is quiet to say the least.
We boarded the fjord ferry promptly the next day at 8am to Oanes from the Lysebotn Ferry terminal. Sure enough the ferry was much smaller than expected, with only room for 4 cars and a hand full of motorcycles. We watched as cars and bikes were turned away and made to take the 3-hour detour back to the main road. You’ve been warned … book the ferry!
The Fjord ferry was magnificent with views that can’t be described as their beauty is unimaginable with mountains springing out of the water, seemly straight up and touching the sky. The two hours aboard was over too quickly as we suited up, unshackled our bike and got ready to continue, surely the rest of Norway can’t be this beautiful? We asked ourselves as we got ready to disembark.
Mist and Majesty
The Røldalsfjellet should be considered a must ride! Located in the Hordaland County this epic section of road snakes down the mountain with little to no guard rails, seldom used due to the bypass tunnel that runs underneath we had the road all to ourselves giving way only to the occasional sheep who appear to own the road. The weather preceded to taunt us with rain, wind, and occasional glimpses of blue skies as we pushed onto Gerianger passing Glaciers, lakes and magnificent fjords. The turn off to Gerianger was also signposted as the road to the infamous Trollstigen, the places that we had dreamed about were literally around the corner.
We made our way to the Ørnesvingen Viewpoint just a short 11 hairpin ride from Gerianger to enjoy the views, but the mist had other ideas. Undeterred by the weather we took the ‘63’ to Eidsdal to catch a short ferry across the fjord and onto the Trollstigen. Blue skies briefly tried to break through, so we raced to the summit, the mist had beaten us to it. Initial feelings of letdown subsided as we dropped through the mists and the mighty Stigfossbrua surged through the valley and under the road. The mystery and atmosphere of the weather fuelled the adrenalin as we tiptoed down the mountain with intermittent visibility. After the customary selfie at the Trollstigen statue we continued riding to tick off the next Norway bucket list ride …. the Atlantic Road.
It's no secret that’s for sure, but it has to be popular for a reason, right? It didn’t disappoint, originally proposed as a railway line this 5 mile stretch of road skirts around the unsheltered coastline and hops from island to island. Storseisundet being the most impressive bridge it was certainly a highlight as you ascend it’s heights you are given a glimpse of this unique feat of engineering. With many more miles to cover this day was far from over. As the sun set behind us we arrived in the Nordic city of Trondheim where we would spend the night and the following morning we crossed into Sweden.
Oh Hi Sweden
When traveling through Scandinavia difficult decisions regarding the route present themselves and the feelings of missing out comes to mind. We concluded that there are no wrong turns and wherever the road led us would be a cherished memory. We headed East into Sweden instantly greeted with our first reindeer sighting, with no real plan for this part of the trip we followed the road and turned off for signposts of a waterfall. The Tännforsen waterfall is a spectacular sight. It is just a short walk from the carpark, upon leaving we fuelled ourselves with coffee and continued back on the road. We pulled off the main road, flicked the GS into gravel mode and continued down a track for about 5 miles, a narrow opening in the tress led us to lake Sällsjon, a perfect place to set up camp. We made a fire, cooked dinner, and watched the flames slowly die out before resting up for the night fully experiencing the freedom of motorcycle travel.
Whilst stopping for fuel and restocking our supplies, a local ran over to us keen to talk about the trip and recommended we head up to Swedish Lapland. Often the best advice is from the people you meet on the road. This detour would add an extra 3 hours to an already tight schedule, but we went for it. Stekenjokk at this time of year is home to hundreds of reindeers and the perfect place to watch these majestic creatures. We crossed back into Norway and had an evening ride through the Blåfjella-Skjækerfjella National Park, staying in the nearby town of Grong.
Crossing (Almost) the Arctic Circle
The sun was shining bright and there was not a cloud in the sky, yet the air had a crisp chill to it, we were getting ever closer to the Arctic circle. We pulled into the Arctic Circle Centre around midday, yes, it’s touristy, yes we bought a patch and sticker for the top box and yes we took a selfie at the mini globe, which is kind of a warm up for the Nordkapp Monument. We had few moments to reflect that we had ridden all this way to the Arctic circle….only later to find out that the Arctic Circle Centre is no longer in the Arctic circle! Not to worry onto Bodo to catch the late ferry to the Lofoten Islands.
Nordic Dream
Out on deck as the sun set, Minke whales jumping out the water and glass like shards of the Lofoton islands silhouetted the horizon, it felt like a dream. Everyone we had spoken to told us this would be the highlight of our two-wheel adventure, so far it was looking like they were right! The next morning our first stop was the fishing town of Å, after a few pastries and a coffee we hit the road before the hordes of tourists flooded the small village and we made our way across the islands. The scenery was spectacular, and the islands have a unique feel about them, the mist and low cloud made it feel like we were riding through the film set of Jurassic Park. We sat on a rocky shoreline with an umbrella sheltering us from the rain whilst nursing the stove cooking lunch. Not ideal but there was nowhere else we would rather have been. Over the next couple of days, we made our way further north riding the spectacular coastal road of Andoya where turquoise colored water meets white sand beaches.
Northbound to Nordkapp
From Andenes we caught the late afternoon ferry back to the mainland. I was thankful for the LED headlight upgrade as we had another late-night ride into the arctic city of Tromso. We had a day off from the road relaxing in the city, seeing the sights and grabbing dinner on the fjord before the final leg of our journey to the Nordkapp.
Chasing the Globe
Everyone talks about the Nordkapp and I had seen countless pictures of the Globe. What I hadn’t been prepared for was the spectacular ride that lay ahead of us when we left Tromso. Not sure how far we would get this day it turned out to be one of those days where you just want to keep riding…and that’s exactly what we did. The next 330 miles would go down as an all-time favorite ride for us, ferries across fjords, the Kvaenangsfjellet mountain pass, Reindeer encounters and perfect weather! Finally we reached the cross roads and turned left following signs for the Nordkapp. 80 miles lay between us and our target destination and the E69 appeared calm and tranquil. With the last couple of hours of daylight, we pushed on through the evening stopping to watch the sun retreat on the horizon. Our headlight lit up the road ahead as the temperature plummeted, finally we reached the small huts some 7 miles short of the Nordkapp. We cranked the small heater on in the room and rested for a few hours.
No sooner had we shut our eyes the alarm on our phone rang loud, apparently to get that “bike next to the Globe” photo, you have to arrive out of hours. Two zombie like figures stumbled out of the cabin and jumped back on the bike to finally reach the Nordkapp. We had ridden some 2500 miles in less than 2 weeks! We squeezed the boxer engine past the barrier, being only a matter of feet away from the Globe a thick grey mist engulfed us. With visibility down to a few feet we actually couldn’t find the dam thing until the black metal framework of the structure emerged through the gloom. We had made it!
After the obligatory photos at the monument, I took a moment to recognize the fact I had just fulfilled a lifelong dream … it was a strange feeling, and I couldn’t help but think what’s next?
We nipped back to our small red hut to cook some breakfast and pack up the bike. As the fog had cleared, we decided to head back up to the Nordkapp and spend a few hours musing around the drastically overpriced visitors center and looking out at the Barents Sea before the time came to carry on our journey. Firing up the bike, this was the first time during the trip were we weren't Heading North.
Just Keep Riding
Riding south for the first time in weeks, we were filled with melancholy, having reached what is known as the pinnacle of motorcycle travel. A goal of ours for years had been completed, but the tour was far from over. We still had seven countries left to explore on the BMW R1250GSA and over 3,100 miles of roads to ride. Riding down from the Nordkapp was better in some ways than riding to it. When riding north, you are filled with excitement, your wrist hard on the accelerator as you get target fixation on the elusive globe monument, focused on completing the journey. However, on the southward ride, you slow down, enjoy the views, the road, the sweeping bends, the crisp air, and stop for the occasional reindeer sighting. I think the best thing about the Nordkapp road is that you get to ride it twice, and each time you get a unique experience and a different perspective on this remote and beautiful area of the world. We stopped for the night at a small cabin not far from the Finnish border. When we arrived, we realized that in the past 36 hours, we had ridden 560 miles and slept for only 4 hours. Adrenaline must have been keeping us going as the pure exhilaration of the past few days was hard to put into words. As soon as the engine is switched off, the exhaustion hits you and your eyes start to close. We opened our sleeping bags and settled in for the night.
Finland, the land of straight roads and endless trees, or so we had heard. I was optimistic that the things we had read were exaggerated as we crossed the border to take the E75 road north again, known as one of the best roads in Finland. The road was small with sweeping bends and a river running next to it. Riding through the thick forest was a welcome change from the barren landscape of the Nordkapp region. We arrived at the end of the road and at the most northern part of Finland, ready to make our way south covering the entire length of the country. As we leaned into the corner ready to head south, we were met with the longest, straightest road we had ever seen. It was seemingly endless. Even with the higher speed limits than Norway, at times it felt like we were standing still as the trees blurred past us on a seemingly endless loop. We rode for miles and miles, not a bend or curve in sight. My immediate thoughts turned to our tires that already weren't looking the best with an embarrassing amount of tread left on the sides. I made S-bends in the road to simulate some form of movement; however, I knew this wouldn't help. Oh well, all we can do is hope that these 50 pence piece tires would get us back home.
It was 930 miles to Helsinki—would every road be like this? We arrived in Lapland and were met with countless reindeer either next to or on the roads. It felt like you couldn’t ride a few miles without stopping to let one cross, a majestic creature but a stark reminder of the danger of riding through the region. We stayed in yet another small cabin by a lake in the middle of Lapland. For just £50, we had a bed, a kitchen, and a wonderful view. We cooked up some pasta and watched the sunset over the dense Finnish forest.
Chasing Sunsets & Strange Rocks
The next day was much of the same, our first full day on the road in Finland: a few hundred miles on straight roads walled with trees, and I realized that even though there was nothing technical or difficult about this ride, the threat of reindeer jumping out in front of us made concentration paramount. With the road starting to feel like some sort of AI-generated loop, staying focused was difficult.
We made our way south riding past multiple national parks until we got to Olavinlinna, the imposing medieval castle surrounded by water. Then we visited Kummakivi, otherwise known as “the strange rock.” This giant rock was balanced precariously on another rock, defying gravity. As the sun began to set, we enjoyed a beautiful ride into Helsinki and realized that the serenity of these vast unpopulated areas was soon to be exchanged for the chaos of urban life that we have become so accustomed to.
Crossing the Baltic, Hello Estonia
Leaving the shores of Helsinki, we realized that Finland, for us, was…. Finished. Crossing the Baltic Sea from Helsinki to Estonia, we embarked on the next leg of our adventure. The anticipation of exploring new lands and cultures fuelled our excitement as we boarded the ferry, which for the most part was being used by the Finns to buy cheap booze. Sober as a judge yet intoxicated by the anticipation of the Baltic States, we set sail towards our next destination.
Our arrival in Tallinn, the capital of Estonia, marked the beginning of a new chapter in our journey. Knocking it into first and riding off the ferry, we were greeted by the sights and sounds of a city steeped in history and charm. Cobblestone streets lined with medieval buildings beckoned us to explore!
Wandering through the winding alleyways of Tallinn's Old Town, we were transported back in time to a bygone era. The towering spires of ancient churches rose majestically against the skyline, while bustling market squares buzzed with activity. With each step, we immersed ourselves in the rich tapestry of Estonian culture, sampling local delicacies and soaking up the brilliant atmosphere.
After our time in Tallinn, we rode into the wilderness of Soomaa National Park. This vast area of wetlands, bogs, and forests offered a stark contrast to the charm of Tallinn and a much-welcomed rest from the sensory overload of the city. Riding through the park on gravel tracks, we encountered serene landscapes and a sense of solitude that was both peaceful and humbling. The natural beauty of Soomaa was a testament to Estonia's diverse environment and the unpaved roads provided a surprising amount of grip for what remained of our tires.
Leaving Estonia behind, we crossed into Latvia. We stopped by ‘The Baltic Way’ memorial that marked the spot where in 1989 two million people joined hands to form a human chain of freedom spanning some 430 miles! We explored many other small yet fascinating places such as the Cēsis Castle, a medieval fortress that stood as a testament to Latvia's rich heritage that had been overshadowed by Soviet rule. We visited the Soviet Secret Bunker, a remnant of Latvia's Soviet past frozen in time and buried some 30 feet below the ground, whose secrecy was only removed in 2003.
Once Forbidden
Arriving in Riga, we were captivated by the city's blend of old-world charm and modern sophistication. From its stunning Art Nouveau architecture to its bustling markets in repurposed German Zeppelin hangars, Riga offered a glimpse into the heart and soul of Latvia. A tour of the haunting former Latvian headquarters, KGB Corner House, presented a stark reminder of the country's tumultuous history and the chilling hardships that have shaped the country and people. We headed once more to the Baltic Sea. If it was not for the fascination of discovering a new land, the ride would have been considered mediocre at best with straight roads and polished surfaces. Our progress was interrupted by some flashing blue lights for a speed-related infringement which resulted in a brief but stern telling-off—probably easier than the paperwork required to issue a ticket to two Brits on a Swiss registered bike.
Our last stop in Latvia was Liepaja, a relatively quiet town but home to one of the biggest coastal defence battery installations of the time. Today, the sea defences lie in ruin and are slowly being claimed by the sea, but they make for a great afternoon of walking through history as one clambers in and out of this concrete megastructure.
Karosta (translated war port in Latvian), a former Soviet naval base and once considered the most dangerous town in all of Latvia, is just a short ride away. Up until 1994, this place had been cut off from the rest of Latvia until the country once again reclaimed its independence. Once housing 20,000 people, today its often visited by tourists and artists alike. The regeneration of this once off-limit location gave us hope that other seemingly inaccessible places will one day reopen their doors.
Last Stop in Mainland Europe!
Continuing our journey southward, we crossed into Lithuania! Now, border crossings in Europe were once an event in themselves, with the uncertainty of document checks and the stamping of passports. Today, one can cross over unhindered and without significance, but for us, Lithuania was the last country in mainland Europe to visit by motorcycle, an occasion that needed to be savoured. After taking a few snaps to mark this milestone, we reflected on the journeys over the years and for the last time on this trip rolled into a new country.
We made a beeline to Klaipėda, a port city with a unique blend of German and Lithuanian influences. Arriving late, the only restaurant open was an Indian, neither local cuisine nor Lithuanian, but oh did it taste good!
Our journey through Lithuania culminated in Vilnius, where we marvelled at the stunning views from Gediminas Tower. We made a stop at Trakai Island Castle, a picturesque castle surrounded by lakes, before riding the fast country roads in the direction of Poland.
As we bid farewell to Lithuania, our next destination beckoned: Warsaw, the capital of Poland. Arriving in the bustling metropolis, we were immediately struck by its vibrant energy and dynamic atmosphere. City lights, traffic, trams, and congestion—the GS was not in its natural environment, but we powered away from the traffic lights in a bid to escape the ensuing traffic and to the hotel. From its historic Old Town to its thriving cultural scene, Warsaw captivated us with its unique blend of tradition and modernity. Despite the fatigue of our journey, we found renewed energy in the vibrant streets of Warsaw, eager to explore all that this vibrant city had to offer.
Heading Home
At this point of the tour, we were on the home straight and needed to make up some time as we travelled through the Czech Republic. As we made quick progress, we were continuously enchanted by its rich history and beautiful landscapes. Our journey took us to Brno, a city known best for the MotoGP, which is also an interesting town. With a 500-mile motorway slog day looming, the rear tire didn’t look like it had much left in it. We decided to take the motor-train from Vienna to Feldkirch—which seemed a good idea at the time.
Boarding a train for the final leg of our journey, we were tired from the past two long transit days but eager to finally be heading home. Now anyone thinking of taking this train should keep in mind that headroom on the carriage where the bikes are loaded is limited, to say the least. I learned quickly that I should have taken the tank bag off to give me somewhere to put my head! With my head positioned to the side, my helmet smacked the metal beams of the carriage every couple of feet. After a semi-heated discussion with the staff about not strapping the bike down by the front forks, we made our way to the carriage, but what awaited us on that train was not what we imagined.
As the train rumbled on through the night, we found ourselves plunged into a world of chaos and noise. From rowdy drunk passengers to unexpected delays, the journey quickly became a test of endurance, pushing us to our limits and a stark reminder that without the sleeper cabin this train is a nightmare—just without the sleep.
Exhausted and vowing to never endure another train ride, we returned to Switzerland, where the enormity of our achievement hit us. We had realized a lifelong dream: conquering Europe.
Despite having travelled through the continent, a deep-seated sense of unexplored wonders still lingered within me. Leaving Great Britain at the age of 21, I'd missed out on the roads and iconic sites of my homeland, having never seen it through a traveller’s eyes. Lost in my thoughts, my wife's voice crackled through the intercom, interrupting my inner monologue. "Where to next, Sean?" she inquired. A pause hung in the air before I replied, "Well, we haven't been home in a while..." "Home? Wait... you mean Heading West?"
Sean and Emily
Routes and Rides
-
Kristiansand To Lysebotn
Episode 4 and 5
-
Oanes To Vossavangen
Episode 6
-
Vossavangen To Gaupne
Episode 7
-
Gaupne To Geiranger
Episode 8
-
Geiranger To Nesjestranda
Episode 9