Heading East
Welcome to the
Heading East Tour
The Ultimate Eastern European Road Trip around Switzerland, Germany, Austria, Slovakia, Hungary, Romania, Moldova, Transnistria, Bulgaria, Serbia, Croatia and Slovenia!
If you love to discover unique places, taking road trips, incredible travel stories and are planning to travel around Eastern Europe. Take a scroll through some of our highlights, tips and favourite moments. As we travelled over 7500KM by land through 11 countries, crossing 38 borders and seeing 9 bears. We love discovering the small, the independent, the under‑the‑radar, the off‑the‑beaten path and brilliant spots.
From road recommendations to stories, we document all the details of The Heading East Tour!
Basic Map Route
The Start of Our Story
Bratislava, Slovakia and Beyond.
We had travelled over 1000KM before we arrived at the Slovakian border. However, for us the real adventure began here. Switzerland, Germany, and Austria all feel like home as we have spent so much time here over the past 5 years. However, Slovakia was uncharted territory, a new country ready to be seen. Sean pulled off the motorway and we started to approach the city; the sun danced on the Danube as we parked up our motorbike we had named Bumblebee. Bratislava is a juxtaposition of old and new. Red rooftops and high‑rise blocks litter the skyline. Soviet buildings line the streets and the UFO observation deck seems to loom over the city. Walking around old town Em loved the small and authentic vibe of the city. Navigating the small narrow streets, we found a bar full of locals. We stayed here for the evening planning our route over a few drinks. It’s an often‑overlooked city, however Bratislava is becoming increasingly popular with tourists and for good reasons, so go visit before everybody else does. Our wooden dinner table was covered with empty glasses, maps and camera equipment, Sean told tales of his last visit to Bratislava as stars started to appear in the sky.
The next morning we woke up early and headed straight for Bratislava castle. With not another person in sight, we had the place to ourselves as we looked out onto the Danube. In the distance we could see the mountains, it was in this moment Emily realized she was nervous, butterflies danced in her stomach, this was the start of our tour. We had so much more to see and discover. Sean with his camera in one hand, grabbed Em’s hand with the other and we walked down the hill ready to head off to the next destination.
The High Tatras Mountains
The next couple of days were spent riding around the low and high Tatras Mountains, seeing Kosice and beyond. Taking the smaller roads and riding through countless villages immersing ourselves in as much local culture as we could (even an Aldi excursion!) Having grown up in Wales there was no shortage of magnificent castles and fortresses, however when you grow up with something you tend not to notice them so much. Spissky Hrad was an exception! As soon as you approach the neighboring town of Spišské Podhradie the castle dominates the skyline.
Slovakia with its majestic peaks, valleys, and forests you can’t help but fall in love with its untouched lands and epic roads. The lesser known city of Kosice was a perfect mid‑day lunch spot. Kosice was recommended to us by a friend who said that the small eastern city was a capsule of local culture. We found a small restaurant just off the main square to indulge in the local cuisine of borscht soup and pancakes. Kosice is one of the most underrated cities in Europe and one you should visit right away.
If you are approaching from Bratislava on the highway D1 take Exit 360 direction Sp.Podhradie this windy road will provide you with plenty of Photo opportunities and some welcomed curvy sections.
Those Romanian Roads
Arriving at the Romanian border our surroundings completely changed, trucks, wandering pedestrians and the occasional stray dog barking at our heels. At this point in the tour we had made great progress, but after the first 50KMs in Romania we knew the pace was going to be considerably slower. We travelled deeper into the country waving at every passing horse and cart and revving to the delight of the school children we passed.
We finally made it to Cluj‑Napoca two hours later than expected! Our hotel in Cluj‑Napoca was a little out of the city so we jumped on electric scooters and whizzed around visiting all the sites.
Next we headed to Salina Turda, this is a unique salt mine just outside of Cluj‑Napoca. If you have an hour or two to spare it’s a great albeit popular attraction!
We left Slovakia and headed briefly into Hungary, the road was long and conditions across the border into Hungary started to worsen yet we had planned on riding as far as we could. As the sun set behind us and the temperature dropped we entered the Bukki National park and onto Lake Tisza in search of a hotel for the night.
The Transalpina, Romania
The next morning was the day we had both been waiting for, Sean was curious to see if the Transalpina (DN67C) would live up to the hype. We watched the GPS as the road name changed to DN67C and Sean shifted into a lower gear as we leaned into the first curve of this 148KM mountain pass. The three of us conquering this phenomenal road. Sweeping bend after sweeping bend the Transalpina felt like it was never‑ending. Emily held on from the pillion seat, both of us in awe of our surroundings. The boxer engine roared as Sean switched into dynamic pro mode. This road was phenomenal! A perfect mixture of hairpins, bends and never‑ending vistas and better yet not a straight in sight. On this pass we got the feeling that we were a long way from home and we thoroughly enjoyed the fresh alpine air whilst being surrounded by nature. Having officially opened in 2012 road surfaces have remained fairly good despite the harsh winter conditions. The Transalpina is indeed wild and beautiful.
As evening approached, we pulled over to cook dinner on the pass, we sipped on camp stove coffee as the sun disappear into the Carpathian Mountains.
Don’t expect to be able to crunch as many kilometers on the main routes as google maps tells you, you’re likely going to spend a lot of time being stuck behind an endless line of trucks with few safe overtaking opportunities. In the peak season the passes can often get overcrowded so perhaps consider riding them in the early morning or later in the evening. Also don’t forget to fuel up before the start of the pass and grab some water for the journey.
The Transfăgărășan, Romania
You and me ... The Tranfarasan and the nine bears.
So far Romania had been a story of highs and lows. The road conditions from village to village were difficult. The number of trucks and heavy traffic made it impossible to get anywhere quickly and the air quality was poor. We started our day off by passing through Sibiu for breakfast and a well needed coffee. We found a cute coffee shop on the main street but we were restless and eager to start the next adventure. So we pressed onto the Transfăgărășan.
Our “pre‑mountain pass stop” was next on the agenda, it had almost become a tradition. Sean fueled up the bike as Emily went inside the garage in search of snacks. Ready and eager to ride on one of the world’s best roads.
It felt like the motorbike knew exactly where we were as we entered hairpin heaven. We fell into a rhythm of uninterrupted curves. The next few hours were pure joy. “Hold on!” Sean said and Em knew we had begun. As we leaned into the first hairpin it felt like we could touch the floor. She giggled over the intercom holding the camera out to capture our lean angle. As we continued deeper into the mountains, we received warnings via text message that there were high levels of bear activity. We didn’t know it then, but this would be one of the most memorable evenings of our life.
“EM A BEAR!” Sean shouted over the intercoms as he slammed on the brakes! A family of three bears stood 20-meters in front of the motorbike, he turned the engine off whilst we watched them cross the road. Neither of us could believe our eyes, it was a once in a lifetime moment. I cautiously started the bike up again and went around these incredible creatures. With each bend in the road a new bear emerged. In total we encountered 9 bears and watched from a distance as they went about their daily routine, we felt like guests in their territory. The combination of what felt like endless curves carved through the forest and being immersed in nature secured the Transfăgărășan forever in our hearts, a very special place indeed. The end of the pass came with a bittersweet feeling, it exceeded all our expectations and to have ridden this road on our favorite motorcycle made it even more incredible.
The Romanian Road Trip
“Bucharest, Brasov, Bran Castle, Peles Castle, The Bicaz Gorge and Lasi”
Exhausted, hungry, cold and wet are but a few words to describe how we felt as we entered Bucharest. Our discomforts were soon forgotten as we approached the main boulevard, the city lights, water fountains and bright signs lit up the way. The roads were busy with traffic and chaotic drivers raced from light to light.
The noise of the city woke us early so we headed into the Romanian capital to find breakfast. The city was a maze, old abandoned buildings mixed with 70s concrete structures told the tale of a city with a complex history. We were soon back on the road and on the way to a place we had both been looking forwards to.
Brasov was everything we hoped Romania would be. We were in the heart of Transylvania surrounded by its alpine landscape. We locked up the motorbike, showered and headed into the town. We strolled around admiring the architecture, walking on the cobbled streets, seeing Piaţa Sfatului in all its glory. Brasov was one of our favorite places in Romania the whole town felt like a Disney set. It was a real life fairy tale.
We ventured next to Bran Castel and Peles Castle exploring the fortresses in all there glory. Eating freshly grilled corn as we wandered around the grounds. The atmosphere was mysterious and the architecture spectacular.
We completed a few more Romanian passes (12C Bicaz Gorge a lesser known road that winds through steep canyons and ravines.) And then stayed the night in Lasi (a university city in eastern Romania, near the border with Moldova) The city itself was epic, modern and completely unexpected as we stayed on the 15th floor of a 70s esque high rise looking over downtown. Early the next morning Sean woke Em with an instant coffee and a cold shower ‑ Em wasn't overjoyed by either. Emily pack up the panniers as Sean vlogged in the background, we are such a good team.
Mysterious, Moldova
Moldova was a bit of a mystery to us. Online we struggled to research the country, we found books and some online blogs, but they only really talked about Chisinau and not the people or way of life. The sense of accomplishment came over us as we passed through the border control area and put our feet down for the first time. It was a mixture of freshly laid tarmac and gravel tracks as we entered the rural Moldovan countryside. The bike was thriving here, there was no surface it couldn’t handle, and it made the ride even more exhilarating. Quaint villages, Monasteries, rolling hill landscapes go by, it was nothing like we expected. We had read so much about how the county was harsh, boring and ugly, we were however met with the opposite, reiterating that you really have to experience things for yourself and not believe everything you hear! The people welcomed us with open arms and the landscape was unique, dry and raw. We visited nearby Old Orhei and some other nearby villages before stopping for the night at a small family run hotel, communicating only with a translator app and many hand gestures. We cooked dinner with them as they told us about their lives, dreams and hopes for their nation.
The Country That Doesn’t Exist, Transnistria
“You promised you'd take me around the world I never thought I’d end up here” – Emily in Transnistria
Whenever the day starts with various army checkpoints through no man’s land and a stringent document check you know it’s going to be an exciting day… Check point one was a small shack just next to the road, dogs barked at us as we stopped at the barrier. Emily was armed with our passports and a mountain of paperwork as we left mainland Moldova and headed through the buffer zone in the direction of Transnistria. Em watched Sean’s hand as it rested on the throttle like he was ready to take off in the opposite direction if things went wrong. They handed our passports back and with an unimpressed look told us to continue in Moldavian. “How many more check points do we have Sean?” Em said with a shake in her voice. “I’m not sure Em, Keep the documents ready though!” he radioed back as the road disappeared into a mixture of gravel with scarred tarmac islands and check point two came into view. We were in no-man’s land, a small section of the world owned by no one but fought over by many. Two guards approached the motorbike with AK’s slung across their shoulders, circling us slowly, an unforgettable feeling of tension was all round us. They pointed us in the direction of a small track and we started to see abandoned houses and small farms. Large empty apartments blocks and a welcomed tarmacked road. “Are we in Transnistria Sean?” Emily said. “I don’t think so Em .. that was too easy!” There was a mix of nerves and apprehension as we approached check point number three. Military trucks and guards stood next to the road ... it felt like they were waiting for us.
“Document!” A large man shouted at us and he motioned for us to pull into a waiting area. He took the documents off us and walked into a building – passports, motorbike papers, insurance, he had taken everything! We started to think we might get turned around here and sent back as the checks were taking longer than usual. The guards questioned us further but with limited English didn’t really get the answers they were looking for, but our papers were in order. After agreeing on a fixed departure time, paying a small road tax we were let on our way. Under a strict agreement that we had to be out of Transnistria in 12 hours. Next stop Tiraspol!
Often when crossing a border, you feel like you’ve stepped into a new country, this was no exception, only this time we felt like we had stepped into a different era. The thing that strikes you most about being in Transnistria is that everyone’s eyes were on us from the moment we crossed the border. It felt like we had been transported back to the USSR. Statues, soviet architecture and Russian relics. The city felt calm and in its own way beautiful, this country that doesn’t exist definitely does. However, it isn’t so much a place for sightseeing but an experience in time travel. We headed to the center, stopping by a small coffee shop, and ordered two black coffees that cost us 12 Rubles (0.70p)
“You promised you'd take me around the world I never thought I’d end up here” – Emily said as we watched the Dniester River and marveled over the land that has been fought over for so many years. Transnistria was wonderfully peculiar, we headed out of the checkpoints leaving behind this breakaway state but taking with us a newfound respect and understanding.
We arrived at Castel Mimi our hotel for the evening, a winery that dates back 3000 years. We changed from the motorbike clothes we had been wearing none stop for the past few weeks and Sean decided we would have a date night. Em wore her favorite dress that had been stuffed in a pannier for the last 10 days and Sean looked handsome in his creased shirt. Considering we had been on a motorbike in a war zone for the past 10 hours, we scrubbed up well. Dinner was an abundance of local produce. Wine, vegetables, and cultural cuisine, we didn’t get a menu the waiter just brought us food and explained the heritage of each dish. Together we walked the vineyards under the Moldova moon wondering how we ended up here.
The Real Moldova
“Together we walked the vineyards under the Moldova moon wondering how we ended up here.”
Castel Mimi, if you’re looking for a beautiful wine vineyard with great parking and incredible rooms. Look no further! Castel Mimi was the perfect place to spend a few days learning about local traditions and tasting the country’s finest wines.
Heading To The Black Sea
“I always thought I was a responsible traveler, but this tour so far had taught me about compassion, it’s so easy to default to judgement. Empathy and understanding only comes with courage to put yourself in someone else's shoes.”
And just like that we were on our way to the Coast. We took a lesser known route from Chisinau south using mostly back roads with a max speed of 80KM where you dared. It was like playing a game of dodge the pothole. Deep in the Moldovan countryside Em rested her head on Sean’s back. We didn’t need to say anything, we both knew what each were thinking.
We followed the same road for what felt like a lifetime, watching the world pass us by. The road was empty and abandoned buildings were scattered along the roads, but the natural beauty of the area still shined through. Visiting this part of Romania was a unique experience in itself, we visited in the off season so there was an eerie vibe about closed up hotels and empty restaurants. The roads were patchwork tarmac, and our pace was slow, but it enabled us to immerse ourselves in the moment.
The Black Sea
Welcome to Bulgaria
We crossed into the coastal area of Romania, spending the night in Constanta and waking early the next day to journey onto nearby Bulgaria.
Bulgaria was a welcome break from the noisy roads of Romania. After 24 hours of riding passing through 3 countries, travelling 850KMs and catching a boat crossing we arrived in Bulgaria a little exhausted to say the least. Sea water in the air. Visors open as we cruised along the Black Sea. Stopping in Varna for lunch, grabbing fresh juice and sandwiches at a local café everything seemed calmer here in contrast to Romania. We set the GPS to Nessebar and set off in search of new horizons.
“I urge you to visit Nessebar, for me it was the pearl of the Black Sea and an evening I will never forget.”
Nessebar is a scenic place perched on an island just off sunny beach. We had heard a lot about the Bulgarian coastline, not all great we’ll admit. (We anticipated hordes of tourists and locals lining the beaches!) Road signs and shop names had become impossible to understand and the tarmac under our wheels was broken but we couldn’t have been happier. We weren’t exactly cruising along the coast as the odd pothole would interrupt the flow, but it was still perfect …. bumps and all.
We headed out on date night in this under the radar location. As dusk approached, we walked along the beach taking in the views of the ancient town. Hand in hand we strolled about the place as the sky turned into a million shades of beautiful. We sat on the walls of this 3000‑year‑old city and watched the sun disappear into the sea.
There are moments in life no words or photos will ever describe. This was one.
A Night In Nessebar
The Wonderful Rocks
Em had found a rock formation and Sean had found more soviet monuments that he needed to see, so a route back north presented itself with both parties in agreement. Heading North on the heading east tour wasn’t planned but we headed north on the 208 to the aptly, albeit not so originally named ‘Wonderful rocks’, they sure lived up to their name, this is a place not to missed by anyone traveling through this area of Bulgaria.
Situated about 4km from the village of Asparuhovo there is an old gravel tunnel road snaking through the rocks which is lots of fun to ride through. The best views of the wonderful rocks can be seen from the nearby main road. Whilst we were there the main bridge was under renovation, so all traffic was diverted through the old tunnels presenting some ground clearance issues for sports cars (we watched in horror as a Porsche scrapped the front underside on the un even surface).
Keep in Mind – There is a lot of new roads under construction in Bulgaria, you can be riding on new tarmac and quickly and unexpectedly be greeted with a rough gravel road without prior warning.
Our Recommendations – We stayed the night near Veliko Tarnovo and went to an awesome restaurant on the main street called Shtastliveca.
The Bulgarian Transformers
Perched on the heights of Shumen, this gigantic monument commemorates more than 1300 years of Bulgarian history depicting the Kings and heroes of the country.
This concrete mega structure made us feel tiny as we walked through it’s grand outdoor hallways. Built by Krum Damyanov and Ivan Slavov these towering giants have been frozen in time, despite their static positions one gets the feeling they could come to life at any time like an opening scene from transformers! - Whether they are Autobots or Decepticons you can decide.
Built in 1981 and unlike many other monuments from this era this place has been well maintained and remains a popular place for locals and visitors alike.
You can drive right up to the monument or there are also stairs starting from town. After taking in the panoramic views and marveling at the imposing strong geometric lines to quote Optimus prime himself it was time to ‘Transform and Roll out.
The UFO - Buzludzha
“Worth every pothole just to see your face.”
When we started planning the Heading North Tour over 3 years ago Sean had talked about coming here. He has researched every detail possible about this monument, he was hooked from the first Google search and had to see it with his own eyes. Located in central Bulgaria on top of a 1440m high mountain it wasn’t the easiest location to reach. We woke up in Veliko Tarnovo a small town near the start of the pass, we quickly packed up the motorbike and were back on the road.
Heading to the Shipka pass the road conditions were good, fractured tarmac and ruts but nothing the bike couldn’t handle without an issue. At this point we were surprised by how easily we had reached this seemly unreachable destination. We reached the turn off for the monument (Road 5005) and stopped the motorbike to take a shameless sign selfie. Guilty as charged! Sean could hardly contain his excitement for the next stage of the journey so back in the pillion seat Em was.
“OH S***!” Sean shouted as the bike bottomed out. The road had disappeared into deep crater like potholes and as we know terrible roads are often worse than no roads. Sean switched into “Ewan Mcgregor Mode” and Em held on with one hand as her other hand held tightly onto the camera trying to capture this incredible adventure. After what felt like a lifetime of rough roads, we turned a corner, and the concrete structure was there right in front of us. “How insane is that!” Sean said, Em giggled. “Worth every pothole!”
My Recommendations – Don’t mistake a walking trial for the road up … you will get a lot of looks from locals. If you do, play it cool … it will reconnect to the main road soon! #Speakingfromexperience
A relic from the communist era the UFO shaped Buzludzha Monument has become somewhat of must visit place for every motorcyclist touring Bulgaria. Built over 10 years and completed in 1991 this foreboding structure dominates the skyline and has fascinated us for a long time. We approached from Gabrovo taking the Shipka pass, a twisty alpine road that offers vistas of the area through the occasional break in the trees. We took the turn off onto the ‘5005’ which passes by the monument of freedom and evidently this was not the most commonly taken route to the Buzludzha Monument as only slithers of road remained like veins connecting small craters in the road. After about 10km of suspension abuse we caught our first glimpse of the Monument near ‘The Torches’ and what an impressive sight!
A further 3km will take you right up to the top of the monument where you are free to walk about the site. Unfortunately, due to the state of disrepair it’s no longer possible to access the inside of the monument and view the Mosaics but there are plenty of videos on YouTube to give a virtual tour. The ‘Buzludzha Project’ is working towards preserving the site with the view of hopefully allowing visitors to once again be allowed back inside and step back in time.
We had planned that we would spend around on hour at the top of Buzludzha mountain, enough time for photographs and for us to enjoy the accomplishment of reaching such an isolated location. However, three hours later we were still messing around and talking to other motorcycle travelers. It didn’t matter we were losing daylight and we wouldn’t make it to our planned stop for the night. The only thing that mattered was this moment – Watching Sean ride off road while we flew the drone over an abandoned soviet monument in the middle of Bulgaria on a Sunday afternoon. Really does it get and better … we don’t think so!
Bulgaria’s Mountainous Heart
“Sounds of birds and nearby waterfalls filled the air and of course that sound of the boxer engine.”
We rode through Bulgaria’s mountainous heart. Veliko Tarnovo to Plovdiv and Plovidv to Rila and then onto the capital Sofia. We uncovered so many hidden gems along the way. Bulgaria is a county full of rich history that you seem to stumble across and at every turn. Another pass that we really enjoyed was the 107 which lies just south of Sofia, the road leads you to the Rila Monastery a fascinating Unesco Heritage site. With its mountainous terrain, 1000‑year‑old cultural sights and mountain passes. Rila was an area we had to explore. Riding through the dense forest, we found a small restaurant to stop at and have lunch. We drank hot tea, eat garlic bell peppers and potatoes. The roads were quiet during the off season, sounds of birds and nearby waterfalls filled the air and of course that sound of the boxer engine. The whole area felt like a wonderland of untouched nature with a new peak coming into view at each turn.
From the centre of Bulgaria we travelled by mountain pass down to Plovdiv, an unplanned stopover here was a delight. We arrived hungry from the long day of incredible roads and headed to Kapana, a maze of cafes, bars and shops. After a dinner of regional cuisine made by a very friendly local, we ambled up the cobble stone streets to the highest point in Plodiv to enjoy the sweeping views of the city.
Oh Sofia!
As we continued the roads turned to gravel as we searched for a main road to Sofia with our GPS not working Emily was navigating from the pillion seat. Arriving in Sofia in the early afternoon we settled in for a day of exploring the various squares and sites. The city’s layered landmarks reflect more than 2,000 years of history, including Greek, Roman, Ottoman and Soviet occupation.
So we strolled around Vitosha Boulevard in the evening, savoring the last moments of daylight. Watching the streetlights turn on as the Sofia night life scene emerged. Just like everywhere else in Europe there is a huge coffee shop culture, so we found a quiet spot to plan our next move as we needed to get our tires changed before the next stage of our journey. As we had learnt during this trip you really must plan ahead if you will need a tire change as stocks are limited and ordering can take up to 3 weeks. Fortunately for us Sean was able to call a contact we had in Sofia who was able to call around and source us a tire that would last us the rest of the trip - crisis averted we were all set to continue our journey.
Our Recommendations – Stop and support some of the small Restaurants along Route 107 on your way to Rila . A local family ran restaurant made us lunch under a walnut tree. Such a wholesome experience.
The Red Rocks, Belogradchik Bulgaria
“We were lost and in pursuit of a natural wonder”
The following morning we were eager to get back on the road and ready to take on the next section of the tour however the weather had taken a turn towards the gloomy. With our GPS still not working and road signs near impossible to read. We were lost and in pursuit of a natural wonder. I don’t know if you’re like us but with photo editing and all the tricks on the internet today we had our doubts that the natural wonder even existed. In the back of our mind, we would travel all the way to see one red rock and we would be sorely disappointed. The temperature was dropping, and Em’s fingers started to freeze as she shouted to Sean “next left” … “What! There’s no way it’s up there!” Sean radioed back. “Trust me” Em said but she could hardly believed herself at this point, her confidence was low and she knew a mistake could lead us into a huge detour. As Emily lifted her visor and the cold October air hit her face, clouds around us looked dark and heavy. The road was broken, very steep, it looked unused. Sean made the left turn as she double checked the map. Emily was so focused on her phone she didn’t realize we had started to gain altitude. This turned out to be one of the best most underrated and awesome alpine passed we did on the tour, a narrow road that snaked up the mountain to high altitudes in no time providing wonderful vistas of the area. Views, hair pins and it was empty! Go pro in hand Em watched from the pillion seat as Sean went to “Pass Mode.” We rode along route 162 and 1621 until Montana still in search of Belogradchik. Two hours later and 100km under our wheels the scenery started to change. Sandstone formations surrounded us; Emily’s eyes filled with tears, we made it! The road weaved between the rocks, it felt like we were in a sci‑fi movie having just landed on a different planet.
This entire area was nothing like we had ever seen in Europe. We took hundreds of photos as we hiked to the top of these ancient rock formations in Belogradchik. As we stood on top of an ancient rock formation looking out onto the Balkan Mountains we had a moment just for us.
However, the sky started to darken so we added another layer from the back box and turned on our heated jackets, ready to brave the elements. I checked the GPS which had finally come back to life and saw 162KMs (two and a half hours!) to our destination on the Danube river. We jumped back on the bike ready to brave the elements of what would be a night ride of dazzling headlights as the rain lashed down on us relentlessly. Thank goodness for our suits as for the most part they kept us dry. Emily sang over the intercoms to Sean to keep us both alert and awake for over two and a half hours. Until we finally arrived, cold, hungry, and exhausted.
Down at the Daube
After the previous night’s exhausting ride, we woke up late to the sight of the Daube running right past the window of our hotel room. Sitting in the breakfast area of a small family run hotel we planned the day’s route into Serbia. We were about 2KMS from the Romania/Serbia border and from there we would hug the Danube river all the way to Belgrade. This would be our 29th border crossing but who’s counting … Emily, Emily was counting. We had become pros at the border formalities it was like a well‑rehearsed dance at this point. They stamped our passports and we headed on route 34 passing Golubac fortress and the rock sculpture of Decebalus. The road ran parallel to the river and made for a scenic ride. There was something awesome about riding a motorbike in Serbia next to the Daube while looking at Romania.
Next stop was Belgrade, Riding through Belgrade city center was an experience in itself, lots of one‑way roads, traffic lights, intersections, trams and heavy traffic. We were not expecting the city we were met with. It’s not quintessentially beautiful like some other European capitals however its vibe and aesthetics are unique. The history of this city is a heart‑breaking tale of unfortunate events but out of the broken buildings a strong and proud city has emerged. We took our time visiting Kalengaden park and Belgrade fortress. We had read online about Skardarlija so with google maps at the ready we headed to the Bohemian Quarter. Cobblestone streets lead you into quaint section of the city with bars and cafes lining the streets. An old‑fashioned vibe and traditional culture can be found everywhere here. We found a cute kafana and we people watched into the late evening.
Our Recommendations ‑ Route 34 ‑ one of my favorite roads of the whole trip. Don’t miss out on the epic vistas this road has to offer! (Carry dog treats for the friendly dogs along the pass).
As we rode back through the countries that feel like home to us, we started to reflect on what we had seen, experienced and discovered on this tour, 7500KM driven, 11 and a half countries visited, 38 border checks, 9 bears, 1 donkey, countless potholes and a half naked chatty man.
Our favorite moments could never have been planned. The whole Heading East Tour was a road trip like no other that was crooked, winding and sometimes dangerous but it led us to a deeper more mindful understanding of our travel style. Now more than ever we realized that our home is not a place but a feeling that we can carry with us wherever we go.
As with all aspects of life there comes risks, but we do our upmost to keep those risks to a minimum, riding a well maintained motorcycle with good brakes and tires is an obvious one but nonetheless not to be overlooked. We always keep good communication between each other so we know when to call it a day or when to carry on riding. From a safety aspect we really gained confidence in the R1250 GSA, its powerful brakes have incredible stopping power with electronic aids to stop you in the shortest time possible. The powerful engine always delivered throughout every gear to get you away from danger if needed and lastly knowing the bike could handle whatever road surface we came across gave us one less thing to worry about.
Eastern Europe is a beautiful destination for anyone who is willing to discover it’s under the radar gems. At mid-day we crossed our final border back into Switzerland and Emily came over the intercom “where do we go next then…?” Sean replied, “Well … we haven’t headed north in a while!”
We end our guide with this. Travel is not always perfect, and you will not always be the perfect traveler. But for us its about learning, discovering, and having the freedom to roam. There’s so many other experiences and encounters that we will never forget that are not recorded here and can never be recreated, but that’s the point to travel and why you have to make your own experience. The perfect tour doesn’t exist so don’t try to plan one. Take each day with patience and spontaneity remembering your ethics but not your routines.
Heading Home
“Our favourite moments could never have been planned.”
